Last time, you have cast on the required number of stitches on your needle with the Italian tubular method. Then what happens next?
After strictly speaking casting-on, you need to work two set-up rows, called often tubular rows.
There are three major cases. The first two are for projects worked back and forth and the last one concerns those worked in the round.
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If you are a keen observer, you may have noticed that the ribbing edges of store-bought garments are different from your handknit sweaters’. Indeed, you can know whether a garment was hand-knit or not, just by seeing the ribbing edges!
The tubular cast-on and its bind-off counterpart produce that ribbing edge of store-bought garments and give your handknits a neat, professional look. If it amuses you to pretend as if your handknits are not hand-knit, this cast-on is for you 😁
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This is the first article about technical editing but the subject concerns not only knitting designers, but all knitters! I drew schematics to be clear, so I hope this will help you in your futur projects 🙂
Do you know your right and left? This is THE start point – coz my hubby doesn’t know very well! (He asks me “the right this side (pointing right) or the right this side (pointing left)?” 😑)
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I know I’m a couple of posts behind about my designs. To catch up with my delay, I’m going to talk first about my Tabbies pattern that I recently re-knitted, about their making-of and after.
Tabbies socks were born of an urge of having socks wearable with the thongs I wear in warmer months. But wearing thongs with socks sounds a fashion faux pas to you?
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German short rows technique began to be used around 2013 in English knitting patterns, and has become so much popular that most patterns using Stockinette stitch and published recently use this technique.
The number one reason of this popularity is its simplicity. Unlike wrap and turn which seems to require some steps to turn and to resolve the gap, German short rows’ operations look simpler. Let’s see if it is true with pictures.
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You all may know this short row technique, but I’ve decided to upload my own tutorial on this skill because I often use it in my patterns and it will help you compare it with Japanese Wrap and Turn I posted about in the past.
For those who haven’t heard about it, hope this helps!
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As promised in the last post, I’m going to show you the purl versions of KRL and KLL, called just PRL and PLL 🙂
The principle is the same (if you don’t know KRL and KLL, please read the last post!). Instead of knitting, you purl into the stitch just below the stitch next to which you increase 😉
When I began to knit patterns written in English, I was surprised that M1L and M1R increases were used very frequently, because the increases generally used in Japan are KRL and KLL. They are very easy to do, neat, and useful!
There are also their purled versions, PRL and PLL that I’d like to present you, because there is no tutorial on them on the internet, and they’re I think much easier than M1Lp and M1Rp! But I’m going to show you KRL and KLL first to show you the principle.
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Here we’re arriving at the term of this loooong tutorial. I’m closing it introducing you another way I’ve just learned in the course of the test knitting of Starry pullover.
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In the last post, I just told about two main ways to add beads to your knitting: stringing and crochet methods. This time, I’m talking about the size of materials – yarn, beads and crochet hook.
Obviously, we can’t add any size beads to any weight yarn, but yarn weight/beads size equation depends on the method you opt for. But let’s talk about beads, these tiny things.
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