Hiya 🙂
I’ve realized that I hadn’t uploaded a tutorial of this cast-on method though I use it often in my patterns. This post is here to fill the gap.
The German twisted cast-on works like the long-tail cast-on. It needs a long tail, but since we cast on stitches with twist, we need more than the classic long-tail CO. We usually say 3 times longer than the width to cast on for the classical long-tail, and I recommend 3.5 to 4 times for the German twisted CO to be on the safe side.
We start as the long-tail CO, with a slipknot placed on a needle, the yarn attached to your ball on your index and the tail on your thumb.
Grab the two strands in your hand to take the sling-shot position of the long-tail.
Then pass your needle under the loop on your thumb.
Catch the back-side loop from above,
and bring it to the front below the front-side loop on your thumb.
Bring your needle back to the center.
Now, you are going to catch the front loop on your index and while doing so, fold your thumb like this to untwist the thumb loop.
Bring the front loop toward you and
pass your needle through the circle formed with your thumb.
Set your needle to the initial position and a new stitch appears!
Free the loop on your thumb and immediately take it from inside to outside, which tightens the stitch.
And get back to the initial sling-shot position.
Repeat these steps as many times as needed.
This photo shows how the stitches cast on with the German twisted method look (right), compared to those made with the long-tail method (left).
The stitches are taller and the edges sturdier.
It’s more elastic than the long-tail, and therefore suitable to rib edges of socks or gloves that are subject to important tension when put on.
And this CO looks identical on RS and on WS, so you can use it for projects of which the WS can be visible, like loose cowls.
I think I told you everything I know about this method, and if you want a similar-looking bind-off, try modified Icelandic BO!
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